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Calling him one the great masters of the New Basque Cuisine does not do justice to one of the most influential chefs of all time: a legend in creative and innovative cooking
Patriarch? Teacher of teachers? Pioneer in avant-garde cuisine in Spain? Defining the influence and personality of Juan Mari Arzak requires a special effort at synopsis, considering he has been working behind the stove for over 40 years, at every section of a restaurant that has retained its three Michelin stars since 1989. Born in 1942, Juan Mari Arzak's culinary journey began in the aromas of traditional Basque food, both at home and in the restaurant his parents ran on the outskirts of Donostia-San Sebastián. The Arzak legacy traces back to 1897 when Juan Mari's grandparents opened a tavern that evolved into a reputable eating-house under the guidance of his parents.
Raised by his mother, Paquita Arratibel, Juan Mari imbibed the essence of ancestral foodways and the importance of quality ingredients. His mother's teachings laid the foundation for a career characterized by a profound respect for Basque culinary traditions. In the mid-1960s, Juan Mari briefly ventured into the study of Technical Architecture in Madrid but returned to Donostia-San Sebastián after a year. He enrolled in the Hospitality School, followed by stints in various French restaurants. However, it was his return to the family business, directed by his mother, where he truly honed his skills and imbibed the virtues of meticulousness and modesty.
The mid-1970s marked a transformative period for Arzak as he shifted from tradition to his unique culinary style. He became a key figure in the evolution of New Basque Cuisine, a movement that sought to innovate local cooking by introducing sophistication into traditional recipes and products. Influenced by Nouvelle Cuisine and the legendary Paul Bocuse, Arzak played a pivotal role in shaping the avant-garde landscape of Spanish gastronomy.
“It is one thing to copy and another to learn from the good things that others do” - Juan Mari Arzak
Legacy and Innovation at Arzak
Today, Arzak's legacy lives on at his eponymous restaurant, now managed by his daughter, Elena, who has seamlessly followed in his footsteps. With an education spanning catering schools in Spain, France, and Switzerland, and experiences at renowned establishments like elBulli with Ferran Adrià, Elena brings a fresh perspective while preserving the essence of Arzak's culinary philosophy. "It's important to think like a child because that way we can be surprised. Cooking continues to surprise me, and I try to transmit that feeling in my dishes.”, Juan Mari says.
The Arzak laboratory stands as a testament to their commitment to innovation. Here, flavors and textures are explored, and new recipes are born, each designed to surprise and delight. The menu is a constantly evolving masterpiece, adapting to the seasons while remaining rooted in Basque gastronomic heritage. "Our work is based on our legacy, our culture, but not on things that have already been invented and are already wonderful.”, says the Chef.
“The products themselves must come from kilometer zero, from your own region. After that, yo can get creative” - Juan Mari Arzak to Miami Herald
Juan Mari Arzak's influence extends far beyond the walls of his restaurant, shaping the culinary landscape of Basque gastronomy and inspiring generations of chefs to approach cooking with reverence for tradition and an unyielding spirit of innovation, but always through the eyes of the inner child that created the new Basque cuisine from family tradition. "People who eat well are happy and cheerful. Where there's good food, there's happiness.”, he notes.